[anmin]

我用 "ground fall" 一詞可能會造成誤解, 應該這樣說.. 粗略估計 5kN 相當於先鋒攀登 "墜落時正常確保下, 幾乎快摔回到確保者一樣高" 的力量 (動態確保或支點磨擦不計, 因為UIAA墜落測試是固定死的, 其數據會比實際真實狀況更糟, 也就是說, 好的確保技巧和各支點磨擦, 繩子要受力5kN還須要摔的更慘).

至於繩子受力, 如果使用同樣繩子和確保系統, "大致上" 只與 "墜落係數" 和 "體重" 有關, 許多攀岩課程都會提到.
每個先鋒確保的新手都會很驚訝, 先鋒為什麼前幾個快扣掉下來, 也沒掉多遠, 力量會那麼大.
這有網路上有許多資料可參考, 隨便 google "fall factor" 一下, 例如...
http://www.cwu.edu/~curtiswd/PapersAndPreprints/cmj135-140.pdf
>
...When climbers read about this test, a common first reaction is “Well, that test only uses a 5-meter fall. What happens if I take a longer fall?” But the point is, the fall used in the test has a fall-factor 2. This is the most severe fall that can occur in normal roped climbing. Since, as was shown above, *the maximum force on the mass depends only on the fall-factor* and not on the actual distance fallen....
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這邊有個DMM墜落實驗, 使用無彈性的dyneema, *短短60公分* 但 *大大的係數1* 墜落把岩楔拉爆了 (主要是因為繩子沒彈性, 但和大墜落係數也有關係).
http://dmmclimbing.com/knowledge/how...yneema-slings/