想要進步先鋒能力，需要做墜落練習

danger · 2012-12-13, 15:49

先鋒攀登為什麼比上方確保式攀登更難？是因為掛快扣的問題嗎？但是其實練好了的話掛快扣並不應該很費力。。。

先鋒攀登難度大部分存在心理作用。當我們爬安全可靠的有bolt路線但做不出來動態動作，當我們先鋒時候抓點抓的過緊，或當我們先鋒攀登動作沒有我們top rope 或抱石動作流利，說明我們需要（安全地）練習墜落。

以下文章是針對有足夠先鋒攀登經驗的岩友。初學者或剛學會先鋒攀岩的岩友們請勿做這個練習，謝謝。

想要爬的更好，需要克服你的墜落恐懼

警告：
-先鋒墜落含危險。你的安全是你自己的責任。
-先鋒墜落練習會比較容易耗損繩子的壽命。練習墜落的攀岩者需要常檢查繩子。

大濟 · 2012-12-15, 16:09

很好的主題！

看了 Danger 的網站以及提供的影片，有幾點想法：

1）如果在內湖岩場練習，最好能在第“六”個快扣以上高度才練習先鋒墜落，這樣繩子夠長產生彈性，也比較安全。

2）影片中示範者都抓繩（抓繩是本能），建議不抓，一來效果更好，二來養成抓繩習慣，大墜落時抓“錯”繩可能灼傷，三來雙手可練習如何更好的保護自己。

3）影片中示範者墜落大都雙眼平視，建議練習由跨間往下看，一來可查視碰撞的地形，預作準備，二來眼往下看，頭自然前傾，身體重心就容易維持向下（正常姿勢），避免倒栽蔥。

3）影片中用 GriGri 確保。那用 GriGri（或 Smart）好？還是 ATC 好？用 GriGri（或 SMart）有好處，有不好處。用 GriGri 比較安全，但動態確保不易掌握，而墜落練習要反覆練習才有效（也就是一條路線得墜落好幾次，可能4、5次），動態確保不夠可能對先鋒腰背造成一定衝擊。用 ATC 則確保者要非常熟練制動且需冷靜才安全，但 ATC 可以動態的很平順，用 GriGri 一旦習慣了，用 ATC 反而不安全。不過這裡的主題是墜落練習，除非確保者很有把握，建議用 GriGri。

（隨寫於東京成田機場）

danger · 2012-12-18, 01:54

謝謝大擠的回應。我有按照你的建議改文。

大擠說的很有理；墜落練習用動態確保對攀岩者及繩子良好，不過動態確保這個話題有點複雜。我做足夠研究和測試後想發表單獨文章。

大濟 · 2012-12-18, 06:35

謝謝您， Danger！

先鋒墜落練習越早開始越好！原來的網站有 “階段性練習指南”（The Progression），將練習分為6個階段，循序漸進，我覺得針對初學攀岩者而言，這些階段性練習指南很好，將原文整理如下（Danger，可考慮翻成中文）

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1838

The Progression

If you are very nervous about doing Clip-Drop Technique a good warm up is to climb a route that is well within your ability clipping the bolts as you would normally do. Make sure you go through the belay check process and also sit on a bolt low down to get confidence that all is well with the system. When you get to the anchors clip in and instantly let go with both hands.

Then you can progress through the following stages, only moving to the next stage when you are comfortable with the previous stage. You may feel some stress when moving through the stages but that is quite normal. Some may be tempted on their first Clip Drop to attempt to progress from clipping at shoulder height and dropping to climbing above the clipped bolt and taking proper leader falls. You run the risk of progressing too quickly by doing this.

The objective is to become comfortable and relaxed with the falling at each stage. If you push yourself too hard, maybe because of peer pressure or through machismo, and start taking proper lead falls but feel a lot of stress and fear whilst doing so, you aren't progressing.

The technique of Clip Drop can also be useful as an aid to getting yourself onto harder leads if you struggle to commit to trying hard routes (fear of failure). Choose a route beyond the grade you think you can onsight and set off to clip drop it! Afterwards you may as well work it til you get the redpoint! And just maybe you might think about trying to onsight that grade next time...

 （一）First Stage － Tope rope falls. Climb up any route on a top rope. Take top rope, rope stretch falls at each bolt as you progress up the wall. Belay style: from snug belaying to a dynamic belay. This is good training for a belayer who isn't familiar with dynamic belays.

 （二）Second Stage  － Clip-Drop. Clip at shoulder height and drop. Belayer does very close snug belaying. Essentially rope stretch falls.

 （三）Third Stage －  Clip-Drop. Clip at shoulder height and drop. Belayer gives normal close belay. Falls are a little longer than at the Second Stage. Falls are rope stretch plus system slack. Climber doesn't slam in as still below bolt when falling. Use this stage for the belayer to practise and progress to a dynamic belay.

 （四）Fourth Stage －  Clip-Fall. Clip at shoulder height and make a move past the clipped bolt or clip at waist or in an 'awkward position' (e.g., choose route with lots of side-pulls and flagging moves) and then let go of the hold(s). Dynamic belay essential. Think about position of feet relative to rope and learn how to avoid being flipped or burning legs before next stage（註：雙腳必須在繩子後面或下面）.

 （五）Fifth Stage －  Clip-Climb-Fall. Clip at waist height and climb until next bolt and then let go of the hold(s). Dynamic belay.

（六）Sixth Stage  － Clip-Climb-Jump-Fall? Clip at waist height and climb up to next bolt, slap for next hold and fall trying to move up. Dynamic belay. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS BELOW 6th BOLT!（註：只要是超過一個 bolt 距離的先鋒墜落，一定要在第6個 bolt 以上高度練習）

原影片第2：40那段有我命名為 “Clip-Climb-Clip-Fail-Fall” 的第（七）種墜落練習，就是在 clip 下一個快扣時，故意沒有 clip 進，同時墜落，這種先鋒墜落距離最遠，也最危險，因為：

1）在 clip 時，先鋒抽繩已經非常多，繩子也給的非常鬆，墜落距離加大，往往可達5米以上；
2）因為繩子太鬆，墜落者的雙腳可能絆到繩子；
3）此時確保者的制動手常常不在制動位置，如用 ATC，確保者反應需特別沈著、冷靜、迅速。

這第七種墜落練習效果最好！但練習時，高度至少第8個快扣以上。

（於 Madison 家）

2012-12-13, 15:49	#1
danger 週末攀言者註冊日期: 2012-03 住址: 台北中正區文章: 39	想要進步先鋒能力，需要做墜落練習先鋒攀登為什麼比上方確保式攀登更難？是因為掛快扣的問題嗎？但是其實練好了的話掛快扣並不應該很費力。。。先鋒攀登難度大部分存在心理作用。當我們爬安全可靠的有bolt路線但做不出來動態動作，當我們先鋒時候抓點抓的過緊，或當我們先鋒攀登動作沒有我們top rope 或抱石動作流利，說明我們需要（安全地）練習墜落。以下文章是針對有足夠先鋒攀登經驗的岩友。初學者或剛學會先鋒攀岩的岩友們請勿做這個練習，謝謝。想要爬的更好，需要克服你的墜落恐懼警告： -先鋒墜落含危險。你的安全是你自己的責任。 -先鋒墜落練習會比較容易耗損繩子的壽命。練習墜落的攀岩者需要常檢查繩子。 __________________ TaiwanRocks.net 台灣攀岩抱石此文章於 2012-12-13 16:07 被 danger 編輯.

2012-12-18, 01:54	#3
danger 週末攀言者註冊日期: 2012-03 住址: 台北中正區文章: 39	謝謝大擠的回應。我有按照你的建議改文。大擠說的很有理；墜落練習用動態確保對攀岩者及繩子良好，不過動態確保這個話題有點複雜。我做足夠研究和測試後想發表單獨文章。 __________________ TaiwanRocks.net 台灣攀岩抱石

2012-12-15, 16:09	#2
大濟攀言癌症患者註冊日期: 1999-11 住址: Madison 文章: 689	很好的主題！看了 Danger 的網站以及提供的影片，有幾點想法： 1）如果在內湖岩場練習，最好能在第“六”個快扣以上高度才練習先鋒墜落，這樣繩子夠長產生彈性，也比較安全。 2）影片中示範者都抓繩（抓繩是本能），建議不抓，一來效果更好，二來養成抓繩習慣，大墜落時抓“錯”繩可能灼傷，三來雙手可練習如何更好的保護自己。 3）影片中示範者墜落大都雙眼平視，建議練習由跨間往下看，一來可查視碰撞的地形，預作準備，二來眼往下看，頭自然前傾，身體重心就容易維持向下（正常姿勢），避免倒栽蔥。 3）影片中用 GriGri 確保。那用 GriGri（或 Smart）好？還是 ATC 好？用 GriGri（或 SMart）有好處，有不好處。用 GriGri 比較安全，但動態確保不易掌握，而墜落練習要反覆練習才有效（也就是一條路線得墜落好幾次，可能4、5次），動態確保不夠可能對先鋒腰背造成一定衝擊。用 ATC 則確保者要非常熟練制動且需冷靜才安全，但 ATC 可以動態的很平順，用 GriGri 一旦習慣了，用 ATC 反而不安全。不過這裡的主題是墜落練習，除非確保者很有把握，建議用 GriGri。（隨寫於東京成田機場）

2012-12-18, 06:35	#4
大濟攀言癌症患者註冊日期: 1999-11 住址: Madison 文章: 689	謝謝您， Danger！先鋒墜落練習越早開始越好！原來的網站有 “階段性練習指南”（The Progression），將練習分為6個階段，循序漸進，我覺得針對初學攀岩者而言，這些階段性練習指南很好，將原文整理如下（Danger，可考慮翻成中文） http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1838 *The Progression* If you are very nervous about doing Clip-Drop Technique a good warm up is to climb a route that is well within your ability clipping the bolts as you would normally do. Make sure you go through the belay check process and also sit on a bolt low down to get confidence that all is well with the system. When you get to the anchors clip in and instantly let go with both hands. Then you can progress through the following stages, only moving to the next stage when you are comfortable with the previous stage. You may feel some stress when moving through the stages but that is quite normal. Some may be tempted on their first Clip Drop to attempt to progress from clipping at shoulder height and dropping to climbing above the clipped bolt and taking proper leader falls. You run the risk of progressing too quickly by doing this. The objective is to become comfortable and relaxed with the falling at each stage. If you push yourself too hard, maybe because of peer pressure or through machismo, and start taking proper lead falls but feel a lot of stress and fear whilst doing so, you aren't progressing. The technique of Clip Drop can also be useful as an aid to getting yourself onto harder leads if you struggle to commit to trying hard routes (fear of failure). Choose a route beyond the grade you think you can onsight and set off to clip drop it! Afterwards you may as well work it til you get the redpoint! And just maybe you might think about trying to onsight that grade next time...  （一）First Stage － Tope rope falls. Climb up any route on a top rope. Take top rope, rope stretch falls at each bolt as you progress up the wall. Belay style: from snug belaying to a dynamic belay. This is good training for a belayer who isn't familiar with dynamic belays.  （二）Second Stage  － Clip-Drop. Clip at shoulder height and drop. Belayer does very close snug belaying. Essentially rope stretch falls.  （三）Third Stage －  Clip-Drop. Clip at shoulder height and drop. Belayer gives normal close belay. Falls are a little longer than at the Second Stage. Falls are rope stretch plus system slack. Climber doesn't slam in as still below bolt when falling. Use this stage for the belayer to practise and progress to a dynamic belay.  （四）Fourth Stage －  Clip-Fall. Clip at shoulder height and make a move past the clipped bolt or clip at waist or in an 'awkward position' (e.g., choose route with lots of side-pulls and flagging moves) and then let go of the hold(s). Dynamic belay essential. Think about position of feet relative to rope and learn how to avoid being flipped or burning legs before next stage（註：雙腳必須在繩子後面或下面）.  （五）Fifth Stage －  Clip-Climb-Fall. Clip at waist height and climb until next bolt and then let go of the hold(s). Dynamic belay. （六）Sixth Stage  － Clip-Climb-Jump-Fall? Clip at waist height and climb up to next bolt, slap for next hold and fall trying to move up. Dynamic belay. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS BELOW 6th BOLT!（註：只要是超過一個 bolt 距離的先鋒墜落，一定要在第6個 bolt 以上高度練習）原影片第2：40那段有我命名為 “Clip-Climb-Clip-Fail-Fall” 的第（七）種墜落練習，就是在 clip 下一個快扣時，故意沒有 clip 進，同時墜落，這種先鋒墜落距離最遠，也最危險，因為： 1）在 clip 時，先鋒抽繩已經非常多，繩子也給的非常鬆，墜落距離加大，往往可達5米以上； 2）因為繩子太鬆，墜落者的雙腳可能絆到繩子； 3）此時確保者的制動手常常不在制動位置，如用 ATC，確保者反應需特別沈著、冷靜、迅速。這第七種墜落練習效果最好！但練習時，高度至少第8個快扣以上。（於 Madison 家）