[國際攀岩資訊] Fastest ascent of the Nose (by Yuji Hirayama)

kevin · 2002-10-06, 15:52

Yuji Hirayama(平山裕示)在2002年9月29日於Yosemite,以2小時48分55秒的時間爬完The Nose(on El Capitan)路線,為目前最快紀錄!

> a brief history below---
>
> THE NOSE:
>
> 1958 - first ascent took 12 days on the final push.
> (48 days of work over 18 months)
> 1960 - second ascent took 7 days,(6 nights)
> 1963 - third ascent took 3.5 days.
> 1975 - a one day ascent was made.
> 1986 - the route was done in under 10 hours.
> 1989 - first one day solo ascent was made.
> 1990 - 8:06 became the record then 6:40
> 1991 - 6:01 became the record then 4:48
> 1992 - 4:22 became the record.
> 2001 - 3:59:35 became the record, then 3:57:27, then
> 3:24:20

and now...2hrs, 48 min, 55 s

詳細紀錄

相關網站:http://www.speedclimb.com/

詳細報導請見:

台灣攀岩資料庫
www.RockClimbing.idv.tw

[ This message was edited by: kevin on 2002-10-03 17:07 ]

imported_Anonymous · 2002-10-06, 15:52

Does anyone have the ambition to climb this face? Not fast, just to climb it?

Ray

imported_Anonymous · 2002-10-06, 15:52

真是太恐怖了
如果你去看過
你就知道這是多恐怖的記錄了
[img]images/forum/smilies/icon_eek.gif[/img]

kevin · 2002-10-06, 15:52

文章：以德 2002/10/05
資料來源：http://www.planetmountain.com

亞洲攀岩巨星Yuji Hirayama的新紀錄!

繼拿下2000年世界盃攀岩賽年度總冠軍及創下On-sight 5.14a的紀錄後，現年33歲的攀岩巨星Yuji Hirayama再度創下攀岩史上的兩項新紀錄－以最快速度攀上美國優盛美地酋長岩(Yosemite： El Capitan)的兩條困難路線：Salathe(5.13b)及Nose(5.13c)。

一、 Salathe Wall：
早在1997年，Yuji即曾創下以On-Sight及自由攀登Salathe的世界紀錄。這條長870米、35個繩距(pitch)的困難路線，最早是由Robbins、Pratt、Frost三人於1961年以人工攀登方式首登，自由攀登的首攀則是Todd Skinner及Paul Pinna。今年8月，美國好手Tommy Caldwell在斷指復出後(Tommy於2001年因蓋\岩場時不甚使用電鋸而鋸斷中指)創下了19.5小時攀登Salathe的紀錄，不料就在一個多月後新紀錄再度被Yuji所刷清。Yuji僅花了13個小時就順利完攀，整整比Tommy少了6.5個小時。

二、 The Nose：
在創下Salath的新紀錄後，Yuji的雄心並未因此而滿足，幾天後接著創下以最快速度爬上The Nose的紀錄。The Nose是在Salath隔壁的另一條困難路線，高870米、31個繩距、難度5.13c。最早自由攀登的首攀者是Lynn Hill(1993年)，最快攀登紀錄則是由Potter及O’Neill於去年所創下的03:24:30。9月29日上午7:15，Yuji與兩屆X-Games速度賽冠軍美國好手Hans Florine創下了02:48:55的世界紀錄。這是Hans第46次攀上Nose，但為了協助好友創新紀錄，這次是由Yuji先鋒、Hans隨後。

三、後記
繼美國Chris Shama創下5.15a首攀、法國Alexandre Chabot創下世界盃五連霸紀錄後，愈來愈多全球各地的攀岩好手正積極向突破這些紀錄而努力！全球首攀最多5.14路線的美國好手Dave Ghram正待在法國Ceuse，試圖成為Realisation的第二位完攀者；英國的Steve Maclure及德國好的Christian Binderhammer皆已成功\On-sight 5.14a；韓國好手Son Sang-Won則創下韓國攀岩史上的紀錄，爬上Biography (5.14c)，即Realisation的下半段。這些紀錄無疑將成為攀岩運動發展的動力與目標，就讓我們一起期待下一個未知的新紀錄吧！

相關資訊：

Tommy Caldwell climbs the Salathé in 19 hours and 30 minutes!

Hirayama sets new Salathé record

Hill Does Nose Free in a Day(中文版/資料來源:梅竹岩館)

台灣攀岩資料庫
www.RockClimbing.idv.tw

[ This message was edited by: kevin on 2002-10-06 15:45 ]

kevin · 2002-10-06, 15:52

Hirayama and Florine set new Nose record

原始文章出處

Time flies when you’re having fun! Yuji Hirayama, fresh from his lightening ascent of Salathe, has set a new speed record of the Nose together with local expert Hans Florine. The two raced to the top in a staggering 2 hours, 48 minutes, and 55 seconds, slashing time off Dean Potter and Timmy O’Neill’s 3:24:20 record established in 2001.

Starting at 7.15 am on 29 September the two simul-climbed for most of the route, at times free, at times using aid, and restocking gear only 5 times during the ascent. As Yuji led the pitches Hans followed, ensuring that the two moved as swiftly as possible to top out at 10:03am.

Hans is well known for his fast Valley climbs and this is his 46th ascent of the Nose. Experience counts for a lot during these ascents and, as he puts it, “more confidence, building on each other’s accomplishments, better gear, less gear and less weight” are the reason why times continue to get faster. We’ll have to wait and see if this new record can be broken, in the meantime though let\'s reflect on Hans’ final comment: “BOY IT WAS FUN! And rewarding!.” Congratulations.

[addsig]

kevin · 2002-10-06, 15:52

Nose路線完整介紹:The Nose--進入大岩壁的世界 — 認識酋長岩El Capitan)(中文版)

資料,照片來源:梅竹岩館

台灣攀岩資料庫
www.RockClimbing.idv.tw

[ This message was edited by: kevin on 2002-10-06 15:54 ]

deacon · 2008-07-02, 01:30

Yuji爬The Nose的最新紀錄！
June 29th. Hans and Yuji smoked the Nose in 2:47:30.
http://www.speedclimb.com/
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/th...d=623985&tn=20

不過好像沒破去年十月Huber兄弟的紀錄
2:45:45
http://www.8264.net/article.php?id=1736

這裏有一小段影片跟照片
http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/object...ype=multimedia

可惜.....

2002-10-06, 15:52	#1
kevin 論壇管理員註冊日期: 2001-11 文章: 1042 部落格文章: 1	[國際攀岩資訊] Fastest ascent of the Nose (by Yuji Hirayama) Yuji Hirayama(平山裕示)在2002年9月29日於Yosemite,以2小時48分55秒的時間爬完The Nose(on El Capitan)路線,為目前最快紀錄! > a brief history below--- > > THE NOSE: > > 1958 - first ascent took 12 days on the final push. > (48 days of work over 18 months) > 1960 - second ascent took 7 days,(6 nights) > 1963 - third ascent took 3.5 days. > 1975 - a one day ascent was made. > 1986 - the route was done in under 10 hours. > 1989 - first one day solo ascent was made. > 1990 - 8:06 became the record then 6:40 > 1991 - 6:01 became the record then 4:48 > 1992 - 4:22 became the record. > 2001 - 3:59:35 became the record, then 3:57:27, then > 3:24:20 and now...2hrs, 48 min, 55 s 詳細紀錄相關網站:http://www.speedclimb.com/ 詳細報導請見: 台灣攀岩資料庫 www.RockClimbing.idv.tw [ This message was edited by: kevin on 2002-10-03 17:07 ] __________________ 台灣攀岩資料庫

2002-10-06, 15:52	#2
imported_Anonymous 攀岩癌症患者註冊日期: 2004-02 文章: 551	Fastest ascent of the Nose (by Yuji Hirayama) Does anyone have the ambition to climb this face? Not fast, just to climb it? Ray

2002-10-06, 15:52	#3
imported_Anonymous 攀岩癌症患者註冊日期: 2004-02 文章: 551	Fastest ascent of the Nose (by Yuji Hirayama) 真是太恐怖了如果你去看過你就知道這是多恐怖的記錄了 [img]images/forum/smilies/icon_eek.gif[/img]

2002-10-06, 15:52	#4
kevin 論壇管理員註冊日期: 2001-11 文章: 1042 部落格文章: 1	Fastest ascent of the Nose (by Yuji Hirayama) 文章：以德 2002/10/05 資料來源：http://www.planetmountain.com 亞洲攀岩巨星Yuji Hirayama的新紀錄! 繼拿下2000年世界盃攀岩賽年度總冠軍及創下On-sight 5.14a的紀錄後，現年33歲的攀岩巨星Yuji Hirayama再度創下攀岩史上的兩項新紀錄－以最快速度攀上美國優盛美地酋長岩(Yosemite： El Capitan)的兩條困難路線：Salathe(5.13b)及Nose(5.13c)。一、 Salathe Wall：早在1997年，Yuji即曾創下以On-Sight及自由攀登Salathe的世界紀錄。這條長870米、35個繩距(pitch)的困難路線，最早是由Robbins、Pratt、Frost三人於1961年以人工攀登方式首登，自由攀登的首攀則是Todd Skinner及Paul Pinna。今年8月，美國好手Tommy Caldwell在斷指復出後(Tommy於2001年因蓋\岩場時不甚使用電鋸而鋸斷中指)創下了19.5小時攀登Salathe的紀錄，不料就在一個多月後新紀錄再度被Yuji所刷清。Yuji僅花了13個小時就順利完攀，整整比Tommy少了6.5個小時。二、 The Nose：在創下Salath的新紀錄後，Yuji的雄心並未因此而滿足，幾天後接著創下以最快速度爬上The Nose的紀錄。The Nose是在Salath隔壁的另一條困難路線，高870米、31個繩距、難度5.13c。最早自由攀登的首攀者是Lynn Hill(1993年)，最快攀登紀錄則是由Potter及O’Neill於去年所創下的03:24:30。9月29日上午7:15，Yuji與兩屆X-Games速度賽冠軍美國好手Hans Florine創下了02:48:55的世界紀錄。這是Hans第46次攀上Nose，但為了協助好友創新紀錄，這次是由Yuji先鋒、Hans隨後。三、後記繼美國Chris Shama創下5.15a首攀、法國Alexandre Chabot創下世界盃五連霸紀錄後，愈來愈多全球各地的攀岩好手正積極向突破這些紀錄而努力！全球首攀最多5.14路線的美國好手Dave Ghram正待在法國Ceuse，試圖成為Realisation的第二位完攀者；英國的Steve Maclure及德國好的Christian Binderhammer皆已成功\On-sight 5.14a；韓國好手Son Sang-Won則創下韓國攀岩史上的紀錄，爬上Biography (5.14c)，即Realisation的下半段。這些紀錄無疑將成為攀岩運動發展的動力與目標，就讓我們一起期待下一個未知的新紀錄吧！相關資訊： Tommy Caldwell climbs the Salathé in 19 hours and 30 minutes! Hirayama sets new Salathé record Hill Does Nose Free in a Day(中文版/資料來源:梅竹岩館) 台灣攀岩資料庫 www.RockClimbing.idv.tw [ This message was edited by: kevin on 2002-10-06 15:45 ] __________________ 台灣攀岩資料庫

2002-10-06, 15:52	#5
kevin 論壇管理員註冊日期: 2001-11 文章: 1042 部落格文章: 1	Fastest ascent of the Nose (by Yuji Hirayama) Hirayama and Florine set new Nose record 原始文章出處 Time flies when you’re having fun! Yuji Hirayama, fresh from his lightening ascent of Salathe, has set a new speed record of the Nose together with local expert Hans Florine. The two raced to the top in a staggering 2 hours, 48 minutes, and 55 seconds, slashing time off Dean Potter and Timmy O’Neill’s 3:24:20 record established in 2001. Starting at 7.15 am on 29 September the two simul-climbed for most of the route, at times free, at times using aid, and restocking gear only 5 times during the ascent. As Yuji led the pitches Hans followed, ensuring that the two moved as swiftly as possible to top out at 10:03am. Hans is well known for his fast Valley climbs and this is his 46th ascent of the Nose. Experience counts for a lot during these ascents and, as he puts it, “more confidence, building on each other’s accomplishments, better gear, less gear and less weight” are the reason why times continue to get faster. We’ll have to wait and see if this new record can be broken, in the meantime though let\'s reflect on Hans’ final comment: “BOY IT WAS FUN! And rewarding!.” Congratulations. [addsig] __________________ 台灣攀岩資料庫

2008-07-02, 01:30	#7
deacon 重度攀言者註冊日期: 2003-02 住址: 風神的家...... 文章: 206	Yuji爬The Nose的最新紀錄！ June 29th. Hans and Yuji smoked the Nose in 2:47:30. http://www.speedclimb.com/ http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/th...d=623985&tn=20 不過好像沒破去年十月Huber兄弟的紀錄 2:45:45 http://www.8264.net/article.php?id=1736 這裏有一小段影片跟照片 http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/object...ype=multimedia 可惜.....