[警告]危險路線,器材報告(持續更新)

[ed512]

本篇將收集危險路線,器材報告
並會作持續追蹤跟新

1.耳片,固定點危險
2.地形危險(落石或其他)
3.虎頭蜂或其他生物
4.器材
5.場地
6.其他

也請各位岩友幫忙注意並回報

[ed512]

[警告][龍洞]什麼事都有可能發生之～～天生神力篇

日期:950502
報 告 人:張登榮
地 點:龍洞後門
路 線:搞來搞去
事 件:第一片耳片斷裂
事件經過:請參考上述網址
處裡情形:無

[ed512]

[警告]龍洞音樂廳破碎面nancy`s attempt路線

日期:950527
報 告 人:游健郎
地 點:龍洞音樂廳破碎面
路 線:nancy`s attempt路線
事 件:第一,二,四,五片耳片裂痕
事件經過:攀爬時發現
處裡情形:以紅色物在斷裂最嚴重耳片上作記號

[Fairness]

我建議可不可能在首頁最上方,作一個類似"免費體驗攀岩"聯結方式,直接聯到這裡來,要不要重開一個視窗倒不重要,而是很容易讓大家知道目前已發現有問題尚未修復的路線.

[ed512]

1.耳片,固定點危險

日期:9605026
報 告 人:黃國維
地 點:龍洞 右鐘塔
路 線:剃刀邊緣5.11b
事 件:固定點左邊耳片有裂痕
事件經過:攀爬該路線於該固定點作上方確保時,由康師傅提醒時才發現.(那時已經確保Second到一半以上了,@#$!*)
處裡情形:無
建議:
此路線塔頂無下降固定點,下降方式有
1.原固定點兩耳片下降至中間平台,再右繞走下來(左耳片已有裂痕)
2.原固定點右側有一多繩下降系統,但繩子老舊,有一捨棄鉤環.
3.塔頂導火線路線有一藍色扁帶固定點,一端是繞岩石,另一端是單結卡住(繩子似乎已經風化很久,極不建議使用)
4.塔頂面左鐘塔面可以solo下攀,難度約5.6,但是暴露感大.

建議另外設置下降固定點

[ed512]

2.地形危險(落石或其他)

日期:9604029
報 告 人:黃國維
地 點:龍洞 後門
路 線:路線11～好人阿郎5.11c(依據小壁虎提供之路線圖片)

事 件:2.地形危險(落石或其他)
事件經過:路線前段約12公尺處有一個FLAKE大手點(赤身男腳踩那顆,直徑約70公分),有掉落危險
處裡情形:因為很大塊,又是該路線必經必用手腳點,但是因為有掉落危險,所以當日想先把它弄下來,踹了一下子果不其然就會動了,之後沒想到真的踹下一半,另一半卡住踹不動
建議:
1.攀爬此路線,不要在正下方確保
2.攀爬者需小心檢查該flake剩下之ㄧ半是否有晃動感
3.最好下次有人帶鐵棒或木棍把剩下的一半給處裡掉

PS:大俠好像有照到處理經過,post個照片吧

[ed512]

3.虎頭蜂或其他生物

詳細更新紀錄
龍洞校門口虎頭峰窩
請各位岩友注意

[大王椰子]

來自link cam的警告
Link Cam Inspection Notice & Update
June 13, 2007

Omega Pacific is requesting that Link Cam owners inspect their Link Cams for two potential defects recently discovered. As of this posting, the incidents are extremely rare and are not considered widespread, but we feel that it is in the best interest of climbers’ safety to inform the climbing community of the potential for the problem. Should any Link Cam owner wish for us to perform the inspection, we will be happy to do so. Please contact us for information how to prepare the return.
In April, we were informed of a situation in which key components of a Link Cam became disassembled after use in the field. Upon receiving the unit back from the climber, our Quality Assurance department immediately launched an investigation to determine the cause and to recommend any appropriate upgrades to our production or quality management processes.
Our QA inspectors have determined the cause was an improper rivet in the link assembly during the assembly process. Prior to this incident, we preassembled the links into lobes, riveted them and then moved them into the assembly station. In this instance, one was not riveted but was included in the move to the new station. The QC inspection of the completed cams did not catch the problem. Therefore, we’ve initiated a new inspection procedure of all links/lobes BEFORE they are moved to final assembly. As well, all persons participating in the final QC inspection have been retrained to look for this issue on every single unit.
We have no reason to suspect that this is a widespread or repeated problem, but are issuing an inspection notice to the climbing community so that climbers may inspect their Link Cams to ensure that their cams meet proper specifications. Of course, we will be happy to inspect cams for anyone should they wish to send them to us for analysis. However, a very simple test as described below is adequate to determine whether this problem exists with any Link Cam. The test may be applied to either #1 or #2 Link Cams. We request that anyone with cams that fail this test immediately contact us. Should we become aware that this is a larger problem, we will respond accordingly.
It should be noted that no accident occurred nor any injuries suffered as a result of this incident.
To confirm proper riveting on your Link Cams, follow these steps:
1) Visually inspect each of four rivets per Link Cam—there is one rivet per link assembly—that connect the gray links to the anodized link. The photo below shows the location of a proper rivet. Note that the rivet head is rounded and peened over as per specifications.

2) A defective rivet will be visually recognizable by the pristine, sharp edges at its crown.

3) Simply pushing against the rivet from the interior side of the linkage will easily force the rivet from its placement. Please notify us immediately if any cam you inspect exhibits this behavior.

During the course of the inspection, we subsequently discovered three units which have a small fissure in the steel linkage of the cam lobes.

As unlikely as it sounds, destruct-testing of these units revealed that the defect does NOT reduce the overall strength of the units. In fact, the units we tested failed ABOVE rating. However, since the goods, obviously, do not conform to our specifications, we would like any units with this defect returned for replacement under warranty.
The steps necessary to prevent this from recurring have been initiated in response to the first issue. We have used this experience to upgrade our inspection policies and practices as well as to improve the materials flow during production.
We take pride in our excellent quality control record and do everything we can to prevent issues like this from occurring. However, the climbing community and our customers can count on us to respond in a prompt, professional manner whenever quality problems do arise. Should there be more action required on our part in response to this inspection notice, we will alert the climbing community.
Please contact us with any questions or comments. We can be reached at 800.360.3990 or info@omegapac.com

[IC]

黃金谷黑魔法巫婆的下降圓形金屬環連結兩個bolts和一個nut
其中nut鏽蝕嚴重
兩個bolts也已老舊
兩個bolts和金屬環連結的扁帶2007/7/14換新
請斟酌使用

[IC]

校門口迎風裂隙旁的懸岩下發現虎頭蜂窩
2007/07/23

[IC]

黃金谷多繩距路線右邊的兩條單繩距路線（資料庫上一時找不到路線名稱）
左邊那條top anchor的兩個bolts嚴重繡蝕不堪使用，
右邊那條top anchor的三個bolts中也有兩個嚴重繡蝕不堪使用。

[antony]

http://www.wretch.cc/album/show.php?...1129136909&p=8
那塊的路線名稱

你指的應該是*sea breeze*和*sea-maid*

[jung]

黃金谷正中間
路線名稱--CONDITIONAL REALITY (前進龍洞 180 頁)
TOP Anchor 的左邊那顆 Bolt 中間蕊心邊緣已有裂痕
如果以前進龍洞出版的年份,這條路線的Bolt應該有10年歷史.

[ed512]

作者: jung

黃金谷正中間
路線名稱--CONDITIONAL REALITY (前進龍洞 180 頁)
TOP Anchor 的左邊那顆 Bolt 中間蕊心邊緣已有裂痕
如果以前進龍洞出版的年份,這條路線的Bolt應該有10年歷史.

這路線至少超過15年了
是該換了

尤其是最常墜落的難關前那顆

另外
黃金谷的bolt
除了所有化學管bolt,黃金傳奇,名不虛傳,軌道,上軌道,不方便外
其餘P38bolt等(多世上方固定點)都需要被健檢

希望大家有空能忙看一下並回報

[sky]

回報有用嗎

回報有用嗎

????...應該找人rebolt!!

[ed512]

作者: sky

回報有用嗎

回報有用嗎

????...應該找人rebolt!!

rebolt的確很重要
感謝你的提醒

不過
回報至少能先提醒大家
至於rebolt的事也要有有心人主動來作

龍洞bolt維護並不屬於任何一個人或團體的職責
我們至少能盡到提醒大家的動作

[ed512]

2.落石危險

日期:980509
報 告 人:黃國維
地 點:後門
路 線:下圖 20號路線
事 件:完攀前的大石頭可能有落石危險
事件經過:攀爬該路線時順便檢查
處裡情形:嘗試搖落,只有搖晃,但是踢不下來.(周遭小石頭有稍微清除)
建議:此路線本石頭隨時有墜落危險,建議攀爬此區或此路線的夥伴多多小心


借用小壁虎兄的圖

[ed512]

4.器材(化學管Bolt斷裂)

日期:
報 告 人:matt
地 點:龍洞黃金谷
路 線:待確認(德國人打的路線)
事 件:化學管Bolt斷裂
事件經過:兩名外國人攀爬本路線,在其中一個化學管Bolt小墜落,該化學管Bolt切齊岩面斷裂
處裡情形:打路線的德國人已將該事件回報原廠,待後續分析原因

更詳細的資料會儘快更新

[jung]

http://www.climbing.org/showthread.php?t=3341
是去年的事嗎,還是今年又發生一次???

[ed512]

2.落石危險(已處理)

日 期:980830
報 告 人:黃國維
地 點:黃金谷
路 線:"Aus der Traum"(德譯:這個夢),黃金谷入口的一條運動攀登路線(路線"優勝美地的想像"的左邊)
事 件:路線2/3處的大裂隙中的大石頭可能有落石危險(長約80公分直徑約30公分)
事件經過:攀爬該路線時順便檢查,並做後續處理
處裡情形:嘗試搖落,已經有嚴重搖晃,經過一些處理,已經將該石頭清除.
建議:此路線本石頭已清除,周遭小石頭也已稍微清除,建議攀爬此區或此路線的夥伴,仍要注意小落石