[國際攀岩資訊] Yuji: Two Falls on El Nino

[kevin]

資料來源：\"Climbing Magazine\"
http://www.climbing.com/news/yujinino/


Yuji: Two Falls on El Niño

By Dougald MacDonald


Barely missing on his third attempt to onsight an El Cap route, Yuji Hirayama managed a two-fall free ascent of El Niño (30 pitches, 5.13c) on the right side of El Capitan. Over four days of climbing, Hirayama onsighted five 5.13 pitches and numerous 5.11 and 5.12 pitches. He freed the first five pitches in two days, took a rest with his family in the Valley on Day 3, and then jugged to the start of the sixth pitch and continued to the top over two more days of climbing.

Earlier this autumn, Hirayama attempted to onsight the Huber brothers’ 41-pitch 5.13 Golden Gate, on the left side of El Cap. He took only three falls on that attempt. As a warmup for this campaign in the Valley, he onsighted Uncertainty Principle (5.13a, 13 pitches) and Psychedelic Wall (5.12c, 11 pitches) on Sentinel Rock. Last year, Hirayama free-climbed the Salathe Wall in 13 hours with no falls; he previously had attempted to onsight the climb, but fell several times.

Nearly every pitch on El Niño was onsighted by the team of Leo Houlding and Patch Hammond shortly after its first ascent by the Huber brothers in 1998. Houlding fell on only two pitches of the route. However, the two young Britons were climbing big-wall style, with the second jumaring each pitch. Hirayama’s free-climb of El Niño, the fifth overall, was the first attempt by one leader to onsight the entire route.

[addsig]

[kevin]

以下Yuji mail 提供：Yum Yum


・Dヲョ: El Nino ascent

Dear Everyone:

I hope everyone has been great.
I just wanted to send a mail that I finished El Nino yesterday 19th October.
I spent 4days to make it.
Finally I made one push ascent from the ground.
I guess first ground ascent from the ground?

As you know that I tried to climb on sight all the pitch.
But I fell on pitch4th(13a)and 15th(13c) and the rest of route that I made it on sight.
Both of pitches are boulder problem if there was chalk on the hold that would be possible to climb on sight. Never mind.
But both of pitch that I made red point next go.

Anyway I am very happy about my performance.
And Thank you very much to Support us.

I will take little rest and I will go to next goal.

Thank you

Yuji Hirayama








・Dヲョ: Golden Gate one push 2nd Ascent??

Hi everyone.
I want to send my fresh news.
I just come back last night from Golden Gate 41pitch 5.13b.

I tried on sight.
I Knew the route till El Cap Spire because route is following same as Salathe.
and Golden Gate become Original line from pitch 24.

First day
We climb up till El Cap spire.
We started 1st pitch AM6:30.
And We arrive Alcove PM1:00 with holing.
PM4:00 After few hour of rest. We attacked Original part.
Pitch 25, rate is only 5.12c but even it was one of the crux on Golden Gate.
I spend an hour and half to make it on sight.
There was no chalk so I spent so much time to figure to climb.

Second day.
We started 6:45 from El Cap Spire.
AM9:00 We finished till pitch 30th.
And Pitch 31 is 2nd crux in this route.
Line is very hard to get it. Next flake is brine and I took off line. I spend 45 minute to understand that I was off line. I wanted come back to belay but I had to take a fall because in this off line was impossible to climb down that I past a V8/9 boulder section.

Next Go I follow the correct line. I guess I spent 30minutes. I found right solution but my left hand just slip off and I fell on crux move. The time was AM11:30 sun pit harder than an hour ago. and I started to red point. On crux move this time I slipped my right foot but I keep holding and luckily I made this pitch.

After that I on sighted till pitch 35 include one 5.13a.The time was PM3:30.
I was tired from all those pitches and I started to climb pitch 36th called A5 traverse PM 3:45. But result was simple I fell on crux again. I came back to belay and PM5:00 my 2nd go I did the pitch. After that I on sighted rest of route. I top out PM8:00.

Happy!

So I couldn\'t make on sight but I made all the pitches on one push in 2days.

I guess this ascent is 2nd ascent since Huber Brother\'s???

I heard from a guy who tried this route last year that they (American Climber) tried the Golden Gate but they did not complete. We have to check.

But anyway this route was great!
If compare to same difficulty Salathe that I will say Golden Gate was more adventures.
You will know if you try what means!!

So I am glad to send this news to everyone.

Best Regards,

Yuji Hirayama
6 0ctober 2003


[addsig]

[kevin]

2003 Yuji台灣攀岩行

Fastest ascent of the Nose (by Yuji Hirayama)


照片說明---yuji在關子嶺毒刺林






---------

台灣攀岩資料庫
www.Climbing.org



[ 這篇文章修改由: kevin 在 2003-10-23 00:48 ]

[nin]

哇[img]images/forum/smilies/icon_hammer.gif[/img]
張學友[img]images/forum/smilies/icon_hammer.gif[/img]
拜託[img]images/forum/smilies/icon_hammer.gif[/img]
張學友的豐功\偉業差他多了呢[img]images/forum/smilies/icon_hammer.gif[/img]
yuji [img]images/forum/smilies/icon_wink.gif[/img] [img]images/forum/smilies/icon_hammer.gif[/img]
帥斃了[img]images/forum/smilies/icon_hammer.gif[/img]
心胸開闊的感覺[img]images/forum/smilies/icon_hammer.gif[/img]
真舒服[img]images/forum/smilies/icon_hammer.gif[/img][addsig]

[zong]

yuji關子嶺５．１４ａ（ｒｏｕｔｅ　ｎａｍｅ：ｊｕｓｔ　ｆｏｒ　ｆｕｎ）
到底誰會ｒｅｄｐｏｉｎｔ

我會等的
這種等須要耐性的
是的．．我會耐心等上一年．兩年．三年．．．．． [img]images/forum/smilies/icon_wink.gif[/img] [img]images/forum/smilies/icon_wink.gif[/img] [addsig]