[國際攀岩資訊] Jim 走了

[大濟]

認識 Jim Ratz 的朋友，請和我一起哀悼這位親和、堅毅的攀岩者。Jim 走了。

Jim 前天（5/5）在 Sinks Canyon 獨攀後下降，墜落地面，施救無效。墜落原因不明，有可能是未在繩尾打結以致滑脫。也有可能是架好下降繩後，還沒有把自己 clip 進系統時，腳絆到什麼東西或某種原因失去神智而墜落。同行的人都在遠處爬，所以沒有人知道真正的原因。

Jim 在 1996 時到過臺灣一年，不少的臺灣同好認識他。回到美國後，也有一些臺灣同好陸續的到他的居所，懷俄明州的 Lander，也是美國「戶外領導學校」（National Outdoor Leadership School，Jim 曾任校長職）所在地，拜訪他並和他一齊爬岩。Jim 在當地是人所盡知熱心公務的領導者。他也是美國「Leave No Trace」運動的起創者之一，現任美國攀登嚮導協會（American Mountain Guide Association）董事，及懷俄明州「Jackson Hole Mountain Guide」董事。

Jim 走了後，留下妻子 朱藍天（Chu Lantien），和小孩 美龍（Mei）和偉利（Willy）。 如有可能，認識 Jim Ratz 的朋友請函唁她（他）們。地址：

Lantien Chu
8，Pheasant Run
Lander，WY 82520
USA

藍天的電子信箱：gladyslantien@yahoo.com

相關新聞請看：

http://www.casperstartribune.net/art...f800831008.txt

或

http://www.jhzone.com/viewinfo.cfm?O...F6EF821204EA95

[vp]

真令人意外,感覺很親和,雖然沒聊過什麼話,曾去過陽明山的家考過肉,爬過他家的室內岩場,是一位對推廣攀岩或戶外活動從滿熱忱的前輩,真的好可惜!!

[大濟]

謝謝您，俊明。Jim 於我如同兄長，藍天就像姊弟，美龍和偉利是我除雙雙外最疼愛的小孩。今早接到藍天的電話後，有很多的情續我到現在還理不清，妙青也是。看到您的回應，知道臺灣有人關心這件事，對我們是很大的安慰。

[zong]

太令人意外!!

跟他認識.但聊的不多.感覺他很真誠.熱心戶外..第一次見面是1996年5月??.在體委會大樓.
當時正是中正盃攀岩賽事..(大濟也在場..)

他常發表一些文章在報刊上..有一篇提到台灣救難體系.一針見血!

懷念他.願他安息!!

[A-YUNG]

深表遺憾 :cry:

記得有一回在麗陽，有位朋友因為玩滑降渡河不慎，導致大腿體折，
當時我們心裡慌亂，不知如何是好，多虧 Jim 在埸，給了我們建議和協助 。

遺憾，悲慟，懷念，追思。 :cry:

[zong]

http://jacksonholemountainguides.com...HMG/OurGuides/

中達提供的..

[大濟]

謝謝阿勇和貫中。對我而言，您的回音帶來很多的回憶，很多的溫馨。回憶和溫馨也許是我現在所能、只能擁有的。我很珍惜它們。

以下是 Jim 的唁文。追思禮將於下星期三，在 Sinks Canyon，也就是 Jim 最常去、最後去的岩場舉行。文中可以看到他，一位畢生投入攀登生涯的攀岩者，種種的腳跡和對這個運動和社會的許多貢獻。

﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣﹣
A memorial service will be held Wednesday, May 11th at 2pm at the
warming hut in Sinks Canyon, Lander, Wyoming, for Philip James (Jim)
Ratz. A reception will follow the memorial. Jim, age 52, died in a
climbing accident in Sinks Canyon May 4, 2005.

Jim was born June 14, 1952 in St. Louis, Missouri, and was raised in
Kirkwood, Missouri. He attended Kirkwood High School, the University of
Wyoming 1970-1971, and graduated from the University of Missouri in
1974 with a Bachelor of Sciences degree in Fisheries and Wildlife
Biology. Jim married Gladys Lantien Chu (from Albany, New York) on June
28, 1986. Jim and Lantien have two children.

Jim was a co-owner of Jackson Hole Mountain Guides and an avid climber
and guide. Besides pioneering many climbs, he climbed the highest peak
on three of the seven continents (Denali, Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro). He
loved spending sunny afternoons with his climbing friends in Sinks
Canyon where he made numerous first ascents.

Previously, he was employed by the National Outdoor Leadership School
(NOLS) as an instructor from 1973-1978, Alaska Director from 1979 -1983
and Executive Director from 1984-1995. Under Jim's leadership, NOLS
grew in both size and scope; he opened the Patagonia, Southwest and
Canada programs and published Soft Paths, the authoritative book on
minimum impact backcountry travel. Jim was also instrumental in
starting NOLS Leave No Trace, research and public policy programs, the
program for local outdoor educators in Kenya, as well as scouting for
NOLS India. Jim also led the way as NOLS established relationships with
its graduates around the globe. Alumni reunions reconnected graduates
and paved the way for development efforts to support the school’s
scholarship and facility needs.

Near the end of Jim’s service to NOLS he joined then chief
mountaineering instructor Phil Powers to lead a successful NOLS Denali
Expedition, a trip on which their friendship and interest in working
together grew. In 1999 Jim joined Powers and Rob and Kathryn Hess in
purchasing Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. Jim was the obvious choice as
president of the new corporation. Under his leadership the business
grew, opening offices in Moab, Utah and Cody, Wyoming, in addition to
its main offices in Jackson and Las Vegas. Along with his office
responsibilities, Jim took clients into the mountains. Guides and
clients were extremely fond of Jim as an employer, mountain guide and
friend.

Jim was very active in civic leadership and involved in many
organizations. He was instrumental in the Lander swimming club and
teams. He devoted himself to the Lander Valley High School swim team,
was Director of the Lander Swim Club Board, an official of USA
Swimming, and on the Board of Review for Wyoming Swimming Inc. He also
served as Director of the American Mountain Guides Association,
beginning in 2000 and serving as the board’s Vice President since 2002.
Other organizations he was involved with include: Chairman of Leave No
Trace, Inc; Advisory Board of the World Wilderness Congress; Rotary
International; American Alpine Club; Natural Resource Council;
Association for Experiential Education; National Speleological Society;
Advisory Board of the Rawlins District Bureau of Land Management;
recipient of the first National Partnership Award from the US Forest
Service and Bureau of Land Management; member of the Wilderness Working
Group of the Society of American Foresters; Founder, NOLS 1994
Wilderness Risk Management Committee and Conference; Founder, NOLS
Wilderness Medicine Symposium 1986; Founder NOLS Wilderness Education
and Leadership Symposium 1985; and Co-founder NOLS Wilderness Research
Colloquium; he was also an Eagle Scout.

Survivors include his wife, Gladys Lantien Chu; daughter, Mei Loong
Chu-Ratz, 16, and William Morgan Chu-Ratz, 12, all of Lander, Wyoming;
his mother, Mary Margaret Ratz of Pacific, Missouri; sister and
brother-in-law, Trudi and Theodore Rammelkamp, Jr. and nephews Theodore
Rammelkamp III and Jay Rammelkamp of Jacksonville, Illinois.

He was preceded in death by his father, William Alan Ratz, of Pacific,
Missouri.

While Jim dedicated his life to outdoor education and the preservation
of wilderness, he was above all devoted to his wife and children.

Friends of the family have organized a memorial fund as a college fund
or for other needs for Jim and Lantien’s children, Mei and Willy.
Donations, in lieu of flowers, may be sent to The Jim Ratz Memorial
Fund at the Wyoming Employees Federal Credit Union in Lander, Wyoming.

[Aaronyu]

不知道該說些什麼...
見過Jim和藍天幾次面, 不是很熟
但是總覺得有親切感
大濟, 也許你可以整理這裡的留言給Jim和藍天
讓他們知道台灣這仍有人記得, 關心他們............................

[大濟]

是阿福嗎？謝謝。我和妙青、雙雙會去參加 Jim 的告別式。屆時，我們會轉達各位的哀悼之意。

另，我希望認識 Jim 的人有可能的話，寄張卡片給藍天、美龍、和偉力。藍天告訴我，將來她們還會來臺，臺灣是她們充滿甜美回憶的地方。一張卡片足以代表臺灣朋友對她們的關懷。

[kevin]

這是Climbing雜誌的報導


摘自：http://climbing.com/news/jimratz/

CLIMBING.COM - HOT FLASHES

Jim Ratz Killed in Fall
By Dougald MacDonald

Climber, mountain guide, educator and activist Jim Ratz was killed May 4 in a fall in Sinks Canyon, near his home in Lander, Wyoming. Ratz, 52, was climbing alone in the canyon and appears to have been rappelling or preparing to rappel when the accident happened, although there were no witnesses and the evidence is not conclusive.

Ratz worked as a guide and co-owner of Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. He was a longtime leader of the National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS) and served as executive director of the school from 1984 to 1995. An active conservationist, Ratz was the founding chairman of Leave No Trace Inc. He also served on the board of directors of the American Mountain Guides Association. Ratz was married with two children.

[pyw]

無論是在哪一國度, 都希望Jim能永遠平安喜樂.
上次見到Jim時已經快十年了,
那是正準備要去慕士塔格峰遠征的時候,
在他陽明山的家學習了許多遠征匝營應注意的事項
及一些高山病的知識,
後來也在龍洞遇過他.
他的事蹟, 也從我美國NOLS的學長帶來過,
他的奉獻,太多了.
感謝他, 為這個登山界所帶來的一切.
願他在另一個世界, 平安喜樂!

[大濟]

伯雨，謝謝。我們將於明天一大早出發，從這到 Lander 約 24 小時的車程，希望能及時趕到告別式。我和妙青會轉達各位的關懷之意（需要翻譯，藍天看不懂中文）。參加告別式後，因為妙青上班的關係，我們會馬上開回 Madison。如有可能，回來以後，我們會把一些照片貼上來。

[mckang]

昨天在Climbing的網站得知這消息，一時沒有辦法相信自己所看到的
自私地，我多麼希望那不是自己所認識的那個Jim
Sinks Canyon, Lander, Wyoming這些熟悉地名又逼我不得不接受這個事實

和Jim認識是十年前的事，他和大濟一起擔任我們那年(1996)的中岩教練，腦海浮現那些在龍洞一同渡過的美麗時光，除了技術方面的啟迪外，Jim本人親和、堅毅的特質，對生命的態度，更是令我難忘。

我也曾經造訪Jim在Lander溫暖的家，對於Jim、藍天、Mei和Willy家庭的和樂印象深刻，對Jim離開帶來的哀痛，我感到無比的遺憾，相信Jim在天之靈將會用另一種方式陪伴著他的家人。

明哲

[大濟]

昨天深夜回到了 Madison。連續開了三天的車，有些累。

整個大西部從前天起風雪交加， Jim 的告別式臨時由戶外移到了戶內。Lander 高中為此停課。告別式在 Lander 高中的大禮堂舉行。七百多的座位全滿了，還有不少人站著。 Lander 全鎮七千餘人。Jim 的告別式來了全鎮十分之一人口。

不少攀登界知名的人士參加。但上臺講話的人均非名人。一位 Jim 在 NOLS 的同事； Jim 的侄子；一位 Jim 生前的常年繩伴；一位當地牧師；和 Jim 的女兒，美龍，五個人分別講 Jim 生前發生的軼事，有笑，也有淚。場面肅樸但溫馨。我和妙青想著 Jim，又笑又流淚的聽這些故事，和他們一齊唱 Jim 喜歡的歌，渡過了一個半小時。告別式後是聚餐，我們沒參加。

和藍天一家人擁別，相約八月見，就一頭開進鵝掌般大的雪天，朝向 Madison。藍天她們有日子要過，我們也一樣。Jim 的走，改變了藍天一家的生活，也改變了我們的。但沒改變的，也不可能改變的，是未來的活力和笑聲，就像 Jim 生前一樣，我們將在希望和笑聲中一齊走過即將來到的歲月。

和一些當地攀岩者談了以後，把當時的狀況簡述如下：

出事的地點就在 Sinks Canyon 的入口處。Sinks Canyon 以運動攀登為著，但入口處是一大片傳統攀登的砂岩。Jim 出事時爬的路線是傳統攀登。第一個 pitch，難度不高， 5.9 的面（中達和我幾年前曾爬過其左邊的內角裂隙，叫 Gunky）。第二個 pitch 也是。報上所登的「獨攀」（solo）可能誤導，需要澄請。

Jim 所謂的 solo 事實上是「架繩獨攀」：先架好單繩，然後攀岩者利用能自鎖的確保器上上下下的爬。這是很普遍的多繩距傳統攀登的訓練方法 ﹣﹣ 找一條難度不高的路線，然後整天就在這條路現上架繩上下獨攀，訓練耐力。幾個星期前，為準備即將來到的攀登旺季，Jim 和 Jackson Hole Mountain Guides 的同事們就已經這樣開始自我訓練了。

所以「獨攀」沒有問題。那天 Jim 也這樣上攀下攀爬了數個小時，都在同一路線上。原本兩個 pitch，架繩獨攀後結合成了一個 pitch。訓練結束後，雙繩下降，所以又變回兩個 pitch，需要轉換。問題出在轉換。

那條路縣（Honeycomb）在第一、二 pitch 間有兩個固定點，每一固定點有兩個 bolt。由第二 pitch 下到比較高的固定點沒有問題，繩子還剩很多。但到比較低的固定點，繩子會有些緊。Jim 可能突然決定下降到比較低的固定點，但沒打繩尾結，所以滑出繩子墜落。但這只是猜測。也有可能是在第二 pitch 下降時就出了意外。無論如何，沒有打繩尾結可能是主因 ﹣﹣ 或打了，但不夠紮實，受壓以後鬆脫了。

我對 Jim 的了解是他不是一個會忽略繩尾結的人。他在一年前曾動過頸椎手術，當時頸椎壓迫神經導致右手癱瘓。會不會這樣，舊傷突然復發，右手失去控制，滑到繩底，結受壓、鬆脫而墜落？出事後，繩子仍懸在那，繩尾依然切齊，如因沒繩尾結導致滑脫墜落不太可能是這樣子，所以我的判斷是後者可能性比較大。

妙青拍了一些告別式（memorial）的照片，我在這一欄貼了三張。下一欄貼了六張。造成不便，請包涵。

Jim 遺體已火化。藍天交給了我一些骨灰，囑我帶回臺灣，撒在 Jim 熟悉的地方。我不會選擇龍洞。攀岩不是 Jim 的全部，他對生命的界說遠超過狹隘定義的攀岩。他是一位平凡卻又偉大的攀岩者，他對週遭的人的影響是正面且亙長的。他對我的意義超越了龍洞。

[大濟]

照片（續）：

[大濟]

照片（續）：

[rainbowsix]

我覺得我今天上來,居然都看到惡耗.......
我很難過,不知道該說甚麼,我還記得帶我媽去他台灣的家,今年我帶我媽上陽明山,
還經過當年Jim住的房子,我們還聊起這段往事呢...

Jim放在我家的木頭,都一直留著,我還等著他來台灣呢...... :-(

Sorry....我現在心情很差...不知道說甚麼....

Brian Wan