2006最新攀登規則修訂

[rogerjia]

SIGNIFICANT CHANGES MADE IN THE UIAA CLIMBING RULES FOR 2006
Section 1. UIAA Climbing
.
Section 4. Lead
4.5.1
It is clarified that the UIAA Judge formally decides on the climbing period, but in consultation with the Chief Routesetter.
4.5.5.b)
If it is decided by the Jury that a particular quickdraw must be clipped from a particular hold, or earlier, this hold and the quickdraw shall be marked preferably with a blue cross.
4.5.6
An interval of 20 climbers has been fixed as a maximum before a route has to be cleaned.
It has been added that it is not allowed for a competitor to clean a hold during the attempt.
4.7.4 and 4.8..5
This is a new rule which states that the Jury President may decide that in the case of a tie in a superfinal, the time used to achieve the result shall determine the ranking of the competitors;
2
the shorter the time, the better the result. The decision to use this rule shall be announced to the climbers, coaches and the public before the round. The superfinal can be held on the same route as in the final.
Section 5. Bouldering
5.1 – 5.7
Boulder competitions will now consist of three rounds – qualification, semifinal and final – the first two being run with the old rules. In the final round all climbers will finish the problems in turn before they move on to the next problem. The quotas for the semifinal and final rounds are 20 and 6 respectively, and the number of problems is 6 in the quarterfinal and 4 in the semifinal and final rounds, which shall be run on the same day. The rotation period is 6 minutes in all the rounds.
The new rules for the final round are in brief: The round will have only 6 competitors in each category and the competitors will compete on 4 boulder problems. All competitors will finish their attempts on boulder number one before the attempts on boulder number two are started, etc. As soon as a competitor has made a successful attempt, the next competitor follows immediately. The final round shall be run simultaneously for men and women.
5.2.2
The rule on touching holds other than the starting holds during observation has been relaxed slightly. A competitor is not allowed to touch holds other than the starting holds (before this included ‘any part of the wall’) with his/her ‘hands or feet’ (added). This means, for instance, that a competitor who touches the wall with his/her shoulder is not penalised.
Section 6. Speed
6.10.2
It has been added that a competitor suffering a technical incident shall be entitled to a minimum recuperation time of 5 minutes.

[kevin]

2006國際運動攀登比賽規則(英文版/pdf檔): International Climbing Competitions Rules 2006
2006年增修的規則(英文版/pdf檔): UIAA 運動攀登比賽規則2006年增修版本說明


資料來源: UIAA Climbing

[kevin]

摘譯：趙子凱 www.Climbing.org
說明：若翻譯有任何語義錯誤的地方，一切以原文為準。

參考資料：
2006國際運動攀登比賽規則(英文版/pdf檔): International Climbing Competitions Rules 2006
2006年增修的規則(英文版/pdf檔): UIAA 運動攀登比賽規則2006年增修版本說明



Section 4. Lead (先鋒賽)
4.5.5.b)
If it is decided by the Jury that a particular quickdraw must be clipped from a particular hold, or earlier, this hold and the quickdraw shall be marked preferably with a blue cross.
如果裁判團(Jury)決定路線上的某個特定快扣(quickdraw), 必須在抓住某個特定的岩點(hold)時掛上, 或在到達此岩點前掛上, 那麼這個岩點及快扣應該以藍色的十字記號標記.

4.7.4 and 4.8..5
This is a new rule which states that the Jury President may decide that in the case of a tie in a superfinal, the time used to achieve the result shall determine the ranking of the competitors; the shorter the time, the better the result. The decision to use this rule shall be announced to the climbers, coaches and the public before the round. The superfinal can be held on the same route as in the final.
新的規定: 如果在"超級決賽"(superfinal)中選手還是平手, 裁判長(Jury President)可以決定以時間來判定成績. 時間使用較少的選手成績較好.

要使用這個規則, 必須在"超級決賽"比賽前(before the round)向所有的選手, 教練, 及觀眾宣佈.

"超級決賽"可以使用跟"決賽"(final)相同的路線.



Section 5. Bouldering (抱石賽)

5.1 – 5.7
Boulder competitions will now consist of three rounds – qualification, semifinal and final – the first two being run with the old rules. In the final round all climbers will finish the problems in turn before they move on to the next problem.
抱石賽賽程共三場: 資格賽, 準決賽, 決賽.

資格賽及準決賽沿用舊規則.

決賽規則為: 同一條路線選手依序出賽, 待所有選手完成後, 再一起比下一條路線.

The quotas for the semifinal and final rounds are 20 and 6 respectively, and the number of problems is 6 in the quarterfinal and 4 in the semifinal and final rounds, which shall be run on the same day. The rotation period is 6 minutes in all the rounds.
準決賽選手取20人, 決賽取6人.
資格賽6條路線, 準決賽及決賽各4條路線.

準決賽及決賽應在一天內比完. (請參考5.1.5)
所有賽程的"間隔時間"(rotation period, 定義請參考 5.3.1)皆為6分鐘.



The new rules for the final round are in brief: The round will have only 6 competitors in each category and the competitors will compete on 4 boulder problems. All competitors will finish their attempts on boulder number one before the attempts on boulder number two are started, etc. As soon as a competitor has made a successful attempt, the next competitor follows immediately. The final round shall be run simultaneously for men and women.
新的決賽規則為: 每個組別有6名選手, 每組有4條路線. 所有選手嘗試完第一條路線後, 再一起比第二條路線, 之後以此類推. 當一名選手完攀後, 下一位選手需立刻下場爬.

決賽路線, 男子組及女子組應同時比賽. (5.1.15)




Section 6. Speed (速度賽)

6.10.2
It has been added that a competitor suffering a technical incident shall be entitled to a minimum recuperation time of 5 minutes.
新增的規定: 發生技術事件, 選手有權獲得至少5分鐘的休息時間.

[ed512]

from yideliu

作者: yideliu

抱石賽新制的主要差異

1. 決賽入選名額減少, 只取六名: 表示競爭更激烈

2. 決賽路線數減少,由六條變成四條: 基本上定線難度將增高, 因為選手攀爬次數減少

3. 決賽選手休息時間加長: 原本每條結束後皆有六分鐘之休息時間, 但新制下每條'最長'將有三十分鐘(六分鐘乘以五人)的間隔, 因為所有選手一同爬完一條後才會進入第二條. 但所謂'最長'是因為如果有選手在六分鐘內完攀或放棄嘗試, 下一位選手須立刻上場, 與舊制須等待滿六分鐘不同. 由於休息時間, 加長路線難度增加也是必然.

4. 比賽精采度提升: 以往抱石賽多人在場上競技的缺點之一在於觀眾目光無法集中, 使比賽精彩度受限, 決賽將路線減少及休息時間加長, 或多或少都有提升比賽精彩度之考量. 此外由於舊制僅有六分鐘的休息時間, 選手為了保留體力, 有時會選擇放棄嘗試, 如此將導致'冷場'的情形

5. 定線與比賽場地之考驗: 過去比賽場地最多只須六面牆即可, 因為每場最多只有六條路線, 但新制決賽男女須同場競技的規定, 導致比賽場地至少有八面牆(四條路線乘以男女兩組). 除非中場中斷, 定線員重新鎖岩塊. 2006年3月的英國伯明罕抱石世界杯則巧妙地運用一個策略. 即將女子組第二條之岩塊幾乎拆光後, 變成男子組最後一條路線. 由於男子組攀爬的速度基本上較快, 因此即使男子組攀完第三條後拆岩塊, 也不致於使男女兩組比賽結束時間點相差太長

6. 對工作人員的挑戰: 由於決賽不像以往固定六分鐘的循環, 因此當選手提前完攀時, 下位選手須立即出場, 完攀者須立即隔離(伯明罕世界杯要求選手須回到第二隔離區, 不能再像以往般背對岩壁即可)

7. 對選手的影響: 新制對於耐力較差之選手將較有利, 因為路線減少, 休息時間加長. 但對於爆發力或極限攀登能力較低的選手則較不利, 因為每條的難度必將提升.

以上是對於新制規定的一些淺見, 以及上個月去看伯明罕抱石世界杯的一些啟發, 詮釋不一定完全正確, 僅供岩友參考囉!


以德

[yideliu]

1. “決賽規則為同一條路線選手依序出賽, 待所有選手完成後, 再一起比下一條路線”且“男子組及女子組應同時比賽”. 此兩規定於定線時須格外注意:
男子或女子組六名選手一旦全部選手結束攀爬時, 無須等待另一組選手攀完, 即須立即進入第二條路線, 表示兩組很有可能交錯, 此點在定線時須注意男女選手互相干擾的問題. 舉例來說, 男女的第一條路會定在同一側, 好讓觀眾目光集中, 但兩組的第二條路線即須定在另一側, 若像以往第1,2,3,4條路線的依序定線方式, 當女(男)子還在爬第一條, 而男(女)子已進入第二條時, 很有可能產生干擾情形. 因此定線員須在避免觀眾目光分散與避免路線干擾上取得一平衡.
以伯明罕世界盃為例, 定線員將決賽八條路線從左至右做了一下的安排:
(1^st牆)左女1-右男1 --- (2^nd牆)左女4-右男3 --- (3^rd牆)男4=女2 [註:比賽中換點] --- (4^th牆)左女3-右男2

1. 關於比賽服裝: 從伯明罕世界盃來看, 比賽單位並未發放或要求選手穿著比賽T恤, 各國選手皆有其山協統一定製的代表隊無袖T恤, 且多半印有國旗及山協logo. 不知此點UIAA是否之前有做修正. 至於褲子部分則是如同以往, 選手自行選擇, 亦可繡上贊助廠商logo. 該場比賽可參考以下連結:
http://www.8a.nu/site2/?IncPage=http://web.8a.nu/(evzpeh45hszwsz2p0kltyabn)/articles/ShowArticle.aspx?ArticleId=1608&UserOK=1
http://britishclimbingteam.com/gallery/?g2_itemId=731

[zeno]

因為最近比賽有疑惑,所以翻了06年比賽規定,如翻譯有誤,還請指正

5.1.10
Each problem shall have a pre-designated starting position from which all attempts shall start.
每條路線都應有一預先設計的起攀動作.

It shall consist of at least fixed and marked positions for the two hands, and may include fixed and marked positions for either one or both feet.
起攀最少必需包括固定且標示清楚的雙手起攀位置,起攀也可以包括固定標示的腳點給單腳或雙腳使用.(意味必須雙手起攀,但要有標示或是說明)


5.2.2
Touching with hands or feet, or chalking, holds other than the starting holds, or adding tick marks, during observation shall be counted as one attempt on the problem.

The rule on touching holds other than the starting holds during observation has been relaxed slightly. A competitor is not allowed to touch holds other than the starting holds (before this included ‘any part of the wall’) with his/her ‘hands or feet’ (added). This means, for instance, that a competitor who touches the wall with his/her shoulder is not penalised.

手腳以外的地方碰到岩板並不記一次攀登,
另外,好想沒有說不可以跳起來觀察路線.