[新聞]主繩被快扣完全割斷(國外真實案例,有圖)

[ed512]

新聞來源
http://www.czechclimbing.com/clanek.php?key=6771

-------------大略翻譯--------------------
主繩被損傷的快扣完全割斷

這個意外發生在人工岩場中
沒有人受傷
因為攀登者(80公斤)是墬落在第一個快扣
而主繩被第一個快扣完全割斷
........................................
大致原因
該快扣是鋁製鉤環
又是第一個
會因為take而產生很大的摩擦力
然後摩擦磨損而產生像刀一樣的直角
最後因為攀登者也蠻重的
墜落係數也大而把主繩割斷
.......................................
如何避免
1.時常檢查自己裝備
2.高度注意第一個勾環(如下圖示意)

...................
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-----------------全文----------------------------

Rope cut completely in worn carabiner

Watch out!!!

The safety commission of the Czech Mountaineering Union recently reported an incident which involved a falling climbers rope being cut completely over the edge of a well worn carabiner.


The case happened recently in one of the indoor climbing walls in Prague and thankfully nobody was injured because the fall was just above the first quickdraw and the falling climber landed OK.
The rope was reported as a brand new (two weeks old)from a well known manufacturer.
After the case the report was published and the climbing public was warned of the risk.
The wear on the carabiner was probably because the intensity of the rope friction there is enormous. Logic says that it could impact the last carabiner on the route (which does not catch falls), and according to this new incident the first one as well- where the fall factor is the most critical.

Picture 1




During lowering the rope enters the carabiner in a specific angle and at the upper edge of the carabiner the rope further sharpens the body of the carabiner to a flat surface and a sharp edge is formed: Picture 2 below in the text.

The description of the incident: The fall of the first climber from the first go on protection, the rope was cut through, the climber fell to the ground, luckily without any injury. The length of the fall was 1,6 m. The fall factor 0,57.
The mass of the falling climber was 80 kg. Belayed statically. The rope was single dynamic 11 mm diameter.




Picture 2 and 3




The carabiner long term used on the position of the route first protection.

Picture 4 a 5
The rope cut off in the incident







Picture 6 a 7
Detail of the cut rope







Conclusion: Climbing wall providers should regularly check the carabiners and those showing significant wear in the rope basket should be replaced by new ones. Higher attention should be placed on the first ones on a route or the others which are the first in the direction of the rope (e.g. under overhangs, in the beginning or end of traverses etc.).
In case the visitor of the climbing wall would find any grooved carabiner, he/she should notice the climbing wall provider.

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ed512 LDS 建議
1.攀岩館或固定式快扣最好換成鐵製或鋼製鉤環
2.不要墜落
3.不要超過80公斤

[shaohan]

嗯............想不透是怎麼把快扣磨成那樣的啊？？？

[goodness00000]

我個人想法是...不論是鋁製鐵製或是鋼製的....基本上它們都是金屬類的
應該是他的鉤環已經不是那麼的光滑了,所以切斷了它
繩子的切端是蠻平的
看來我這個怕死的人以後還是爬抱石就好

[tomzoo]

所謂鐵棒磨成繡花針就可說明這......

[蛋頭]

金屬的磨損不僅發生於快扣的鉤環，也可在使用長久的8字環還有傳統攀登器械上。另外有如最容易生銹的岩械鋼絲上。

圖一經常看到，其實不是很好的確保位置(即確保者為了看的清楚一點而遠離岩面)，希望儘可能避免。

這個案例有點特別的是才墜落1.6m, 且墜落率為0.57, 難道說捷克的岩場都是2公尺開始就要掛快扣？

目前先鋒攀登包括在人工岩場用你的快扣來爬是大多有這個顧慮。上面那個鉤環連接岩面上耳片後通常(快扣上面那個鉤環)鋁合金磨的比較厲害，這個鉤環如果使用直口的通常不會被你拿來放成下面鉤環變成這個案例的翻版；但這個落入之前我們看到的鉤環斷裂的危機。

還是同樣建議如果是攀爬人工岩場，快扣上面那個鉤環使用鋼製的，是很重沒錯，但比較安全。人工岩場營運者可以以市售有鎖鋼製O型鉤環代替，也是比較安全的作法。

Danto

[IC]

在台灣的人工岩場，確保時我也常為了看清楚，離岩面很遠。

在吉隆坡的人工岩場，我就被管理員要求過，確保時必須在岩面三公尺內。

[岩舞]

從快扣的狀況來看.摩擦位置已像刀片一樣的鋒利了.很明顯的這個快扣已不適合當作任何種類的攀登型態使用.應立即報廢.墬落系數及攀登者體重充其量只是幫凶.應該不是斷繩的主因
這樣這樣的磨損情況在彰師大的攀岩場地也蠻常見(岩場下為沙坑地.故繩子無法完全避免沙子的附著造成器材的異常磨損.但主要都是發生在8字環或ATC的摩擦位置.且日積月累才會造成這麼嚴重的凹槽.一般而言先鋒攀登的情況.除非爬的太勤了整組快扣都磨損......不然應該不可能是這種磨損圖
合理的懷疑根本就是不正當的使用器材造成......

[阿彬]

11mm的绳子也被弄断！
有说这绳子是什么牌子的吗？
花色跟我Mammut Tusk 9.8一样的说