[新聞]台灣攀岩女后--黃百樂(中時電子報)

[ed512]

轉載自中時電子報
2007.06.23
台灣攀岩女后--黃百樂
文／黃亞琪



我，黃百樂，今年36歲，身為中華民國職業攀岩國手已經超過10年；目前最大希望是能在2009年高雄世運會奪冠。
I`m Huang Baile. I`m 36 years old and I`ve represented Taiwan in international rock climbing competitions for over ten years. My greatest ambition is to win the gold at the 2009 World Games in Kaohsiung.
很多人想到攀岩，就想到電影《不可能的任務3》中，湯姆克魯斯帥帥地掛在懸崖上攀爬的樣子，所以將攀岩歸屬於「男孩的玩具」，是男子漢的專利。而目前台灣女性攀岩國手簡直是動物園中的稀有動物，僅有10位左右，如果有人跑去生小孩，數字馬上降為個位數。
Many people think of rock climbing as a sport for men, or the domain of macho men. The female rock climbers now representing Taiwan internationally are truly rare birds--there are only ten of us. Should any of us choose to have a child, our numbers would thin still further.
攀岩是在垂直峭壁上展現過人身手的一項運動，攀岩者依靠雙手、雙腳登抓岩面上突起的支點或裂縫，向上移動，這需要膽量和技巧，而且要發揮身體全部力量，集耐力、柔韌、平衡、思考判斷力和心理因素於一體，完成騰挪、穿越、引體向上、重心轉移、支撐點轉換等動作，絕非靠蠻力就能完成。

台灣攀岩女后——黃百樂（台灣光華提供）
To me, rock climbing is a sport in which you demonstrate extraordinary skills on a vertical rock face. Climbers grip small protrusions and fissures with their hands and feet to propel themselves upwards. It takes skill, courage, and physical strength. Climbers must also develop stamina, flexibility, balance, decision-making skills and mental toughness. Moves such as traversing, mantling, adjusting your center of gravity, and moving to a new hold all require much more than just strength.
也因為攀岩如此迷人，讓我大二下學期，第一次和社團伙伴到北投大砲岩攀岩時就愛上攀岩，後來更是愛上競賽的感覺。攀岩競賽讓我的人生有了目標，為了卓越，為了獲得冠軍，我不斷練習，只為了突破極限，得到第一名。
I fell in love with climbing the first time I went out with my climbing club in my sophomore year at university. We went to Peitou`s Cannon Rock. I later came to love the feeling you get during competitions. Climbing competitions have given me a goal in life. I train endlessly to excel and to win. It`s all about pushing my limits and being number one.

台灣攀岩女后——黃百樂（台灣光華提供）

在攀岩界裡，相較於男性，女性具備重量輕、柔軟度較好的優勢，身體協調性上也不會輸給男生。在強調爆發力、技巧和智力的「抱石賽」（不同高達幾百公尺的大峭壁攀登，抱石賽多在室內舉行，高度僅4、5公尺，以速度最快者為優勝），女性甚至可以得到更佳的成績。記得我在1998年時，還曾經極力爭取參加國內兩場男子組賽事，結果「英雌」打敗群雄，分別獲得第二名和第四名的成績。
Women have two principal advantages over men as climbers--we are lighter and more flexible. And we are certainly a match for men in terms of physical coordination. Women sometimes even outscore men in bouldering competitions, which stress explosive strength, technique and decision-making. I remember steeling myself to compete in the men`s group in two domestic competitions in 1998. I ended up outscoring most of the men, finishing second at one and fourth at the other. 但畢竟在攀岩界中，女性還是屬於少數民族，有時免不了遭受排擠。「我們都上不去了，妳怎麼可能上得去？」、「哇！屁股這麼大，還敢出來比賽！」「黃百樂能夠專心比賽拿冠軍，是因為沒結婚、不必照顧小孩」等嘲諷的話，我已經聽了10年了。這也難怪，男人總覺得被女人超越很沒面子，好像他們的男性優勢受到質疑了。

台灣攀岩女后——黃百樂（台灣光華提供）

Nonetheless, women remain in the minority in the climbing community and sometimes even face discrimination. You often hear men say things like, "If we can`t get up there, how`s she going to do it?" or "The reason Huang Baile has been able to focus on and win competitions is that she isn`t married and doesn`t have to take care of any kids." I`ve been hearing dismissive remarks like that for ten years. It`s hardly a surprise. Men always feel humiliated when they`re beaten by a woman.
我也不跟他們吵，直接在他們面前攀給他們看。當攀爬到最高點，順繩下到地面時，我才淡淡地對剛剛鄙眼笑我的男生說：「攀爬的樂趣與自由，不會因為我是女生而打折扣的。」不過，哈哈，可能也是因為我衝破了性別藩籬，成為他們眼中「不乖巧」的女生，所以才常常找不到可以砥礪練習的岩伴，與願意在下面幫我拉著繩索確保安全的同伴吧！ I don`t argue with them; I just let them watch me climb. After reaching the summit, I come back down and mildly say to whomever was just mocking me, "I don`t enjoy climbing any less because I`m a woman." But, maybe because I`ve broken through gender barriers, I`m not seen as some kind of "adorable" girl and often can`t find a climbing partner to belay me or practice with me.

而女性的表現也常會因為外在條件限制被壓抑。我在2002年7月舉行的總統盃攀岩抱石錦標賽奪得女子冠軍時發現，就算我的成績排名優於男子組冠軍，但男子組冠軍獎金達1萬2千元，女子組僅區區5千元而已，連男性的一半都不到。Women`s performances are also often limited by outside factors. After I won the July 2002 President`s Cup bouldering competition, I learned that the prize for winning the women`s group was only NT$5,000, or less than half the NT$12,000 awarded to the winner of the men`s group. And I had outscored him!

我就跑去跟主辦單位抗議，得到的答覆是「根據規定，男子參賽人數較多，競爭激烈，而女子參賽人數少，水準較差。為了擔心男子選手抗議，所以獎金比女子多，」以及「選手不該為了獎金而比賽，要為崇高的運動精神而競爭。」這樣的回答讓我錯愕不已，一度還因為我「過於積極爭取權利」，面臨禁賽的判決。 When I protested, I was told, "Competitors should not enter for the money. They should compete for the love of the sport." Their response left me slack-jawed, and for a time I was even barred from competition for "fighting too hard" for my rights.


除了體力受質疑外，我還要面對「身高不足，不適合攀登」的評語。身高只有147公分的我，常常會被問到這個問題，一般人看到我，先驚訝、然後婉轉的問：「攀岩必須手腳到位、踩抓住支點，然後才可以一步一步往上爬。妳怎麼這麼瘦小？真的爬得上去嗎？」到最後，我也懶得解釋了，乾脆直接弓起手臂上的二頭肌，展示我每天花上10小時岩場攀爬、密集游泳和一口氣拉20下單槓長期努力訓練的成果。當然啦！選手心中克服困難的意志力和自信心的強弱也很重要，長期比賽也是蠻消磨人的心志的。
People not only doubt my strength, they tell me I`m not tall enough to climb. I`m only 147 centimeters tall, and people often ask how it is that I can climb. They`re surprised when they first see me, but then shift gears. "Rock climbers have to reach out for protrusions with their hands and feet to get up a rock face," they say. "But you`re so little. Can you really climb?"
I`ve answered this so many times that I can`t be bothered to explain anymore. I just flex my biceps, showing them the results of ten hours a day spent climbing, swimming, and doing sets of 20 chin-ups. A competitor`s determination to overcome adversity and degree of self-confidence are critical, too, because competing over long periods is really wearing.


看我這麼辛苦的訓練和比賽，每天還要錙銖必較經費問題，有位商學院畢業的朋友建議我，可以寫好參賽提案企劃書，尋求企業或者政府贊助奧援。我看著「天下雜誌」「1,000大企業」名單，從年營業額最高的企業先下手，一家家開始打電話。可惜，幸運的話，還有「請先將計畫書寄給我們」的機會；但往往是以「抱歉，目前我們沒有多餘資金與贊助！」冷淡話語結束對話。超過百通以上的電話，最後卻只有蕃薯藤岩場黃正安先生10萬元一通回音。
Seeing me worrying about money on top of my grueling training and competition regimen, a business-graduate friend recommended I put together a competition proposal and use it to seek financial support from businesses and the government. I took a look at CommonWealth magazine`s list of Taiwan`s top 1,000 businesses, and began making calls, starting from the top. If I was lucky, they might ask me to send over a proposal. But more often they told me they didn`t currently have the resources to support me and brought the conversation to a cold end. I made more than 100 calls and in the end only Huang Cheng-an, owner of the Sweet Potato Vine Climbing Center, responded with an offer of NT$100,000 in support.

男選手較少利用企劃能力來書寫賽事功績與陳述未來展望，他們總是覺得麻煩，但我就會發揮百折不撓的「盧」（纏磨）功，經過多次寫信給當時體委會主委林德福後，接連2003年和2005年都得到體委會和金車文教基金會贊助。經費有了著落，成為國內攀岩界得到贊助最多的選手，卻因此受到男性選手的不平與嫉妒，甚至在網站上留下：「黃百樂人格特質有問題」等輕蔑的字眼。

Male competitors usually don`t bother to use their business skills to write up a list of their achievements and discuss their future prospects. I, on the other hand, persisted in the face of setbacks. After writing many letters to Lin Te-fu, then the chairman of the National Council on Physical Fitness and Sports (NCPFS), I received funding from both the NCPFS and the King Car Education Foundation in 2003 and 2005. Having my expenses covered, and actually receiving more support than any other climber in Taiwan, made my male counterparts jealous. Someone even questioned my character online. 所幸那段日子也是我最風光、得意的幾年。繼1998年我在新加坡拿下國際攀岩難度賽女子組冠軍後，接連2001年於亞洲錦標賽女子組第3名，2002年在扶輪盃難度賽與速度賽中則是女子組雙冠軍。

Fortunately, this came about during my best years: In 1998, I won the women`s division of the difficulty competition at the international rock climbing championships in Singapore. In 2001, I placed third in the women`s division at the Asian championships. In 2002, I won the women`s division in both the speed and difficulty competitions at the Rotary Cup.

去年，我很幸運地成為「Keep Walking夢想資助計畫」得主，獲得105萬元的贊助，在兩年內要完成6~8場的國際比賽與訓練。主辦單位跟我說，在口試之前，我本來並不是前6名的錄取人選，但受到企劃書詳細的賽事規劃與口試時侃侃而談的堅持，評審們看見我的毅力與熱情，所以在面試加分下獲選入選，也讓我可以稍稍喘口氣，在沒有後顧之憂下，接著兩個月我會到日本接受訓練。
Last year, I was fortunate to receive NT$1.05 million in support from the Keep Walking Fund on the condition that I train for and complete six to eight international events in two years. The sponsors told me that prior to the interview, I was not even one of their top six candidates.

這麼多年下來，家人原先不諒解，但是看見我這麼孤獨又辛苦的堅持，自己一個人從經費不足到極力爭取贊助，現在已轉成我背後最沈默又有力的支持者。我一步步走過來，除了長期過度拉扯肌肉而造成的運動傷害外，迎面而來的挑戰是「年紀」。不過老實說，年紀還不是最大的問題，未來的生涯規劃才是我比較擔心的。可是我只要想起兩件事，總又可以讓我奮勇向前。
For many years, my family members were not sympathetic. But my dedicated, solitary persistence and aggressive efforts to get funding won them over. They are now my most ardent (though quiet) supporters. As I continue to travel this path, my greatest challenges are my age and injuries from excessive long-term stress on my muscles. Honestly, my biggest issue isn`t my age, but the planning of my future career. Then again, I need only remember two things to find the courage to soldier on. 一件是因攀岩賽事發生意外而過世的18歲法國男選手曾經告訴我：「有些事情現在不做，未來不見得有機會做。一定要趁年輕，積極做自己想做的事，才不枉此生。」另一件事情就是，1998年時，我在新加坡拿下攀岩難度賽冠軍的那刻。當我完成路線攀岩後，原本沒信心的我被歡聲雷動的鼓掌聲「嚇」了一跳，才回過神來。大家的鼓勵是我堅持下去的動力，我也熱愛這樣的掌聲。接下來兩個月，我都將在日本接受訓練，忙碌的課程讓我沒時間質疑別人的「質疑」，這樣也好，因為我本來就是用行動證明一切的人。 The first is something an 18-year-old French climber, who died as a result of an accident in competition, told me. He said: "There are some things you have to do now because you might not have the chance to do them later. If you don`t want your life to go to waste, you have to spend your youth doing the things you want to do." The second thing is when I won the difficulty competition in Singapore in 1998. I`d never had much confidence in myself and was shocked by the thunderous applause I received when I finished the route. I`ve held onto that cheering as a motivator. For the next two months, I`ll be training in Japan. Keeping busy learning leaves me no time to dwell on other people`s doubts. That`s good, because I believe actions speak louder than words.

[james38]

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[黃百樂]

作者: james38

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還有版主的手指之勞...

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