[分享]Cam-Hooking

[大濟]

Cam-hooking 是80年代美國人工攀登發展出來的工具及技巧，現在還是有人用，而且真的有用，但不是很流行，只是提供有心人看看了解一下。龍洞有些細裂隙倒是蠻適合的 (另有一種有類似功能但不同廠商的叫 “Crack-n-Ups” ，可惜已經找不到資料了）

原文刊在：http://www.climbing.com/print/techti...m-hooking_101/


Tech Tips: Cam-hooking 101
By Jeff Achey

Cam-hook technique has been honed to a fine edge by Yosemite’s speed-aid climbers, but even if you prefer to climb walls slowly, as I do, cam hooking can save you a lot of hassle when aiding thin cracks, as well as protect the rock and win you “clean aid” points.

Cam hooks, originally designed by Ed Leeper, are simple, hard-steel levers that wedge in thin cracks, dihedrals, under roofs, and even in pockets or boxy pin scars. Moses Enterprises makes them now in several sizes ($10.95 each, http://mosesclimbing.com/). Cam hooks are most at home in cracks too thin for camming units, where you’d otherwise aid by nutting or pounding Lost Arrow pitons. Nuts that you’ve weighted, especially small brass ones, can be difficult to remove and often become trashed in the process. Cam hooks, in contrast, pop out easily. The downside is that a placement that’s secure while you’re standing on it may fall out when unweighted, making cam-hooking a little spooky.

A textbook placement will utilize a slot-like widening in the crack—typically a subtle pin scar—but unlike nuts, cam hooks do not need a constriction in the crack to work. Bury the blade anywhere it will fit, clip an aider to the cam hook’s sling, and stand up—the hook holds firm by putting wicked leverage on the sides of the crack. For this reason, consider all other options before cam-hooking on soft sandstone (such as found in Zion National Park), since the hook can blow out the edges of the crack just like a piton would. A reduced-leverage, “fragile flake” version of the hook is available for softer rock.

Avoid bounce-testing when moving between cam hooks, since this will unweight your lower placement, possibly causing it to fall out. Instead, slot your new placement carefully, set and test it with a firm step in your aider, then move on up.

Flared cracks make cam-hooking tricky and less secure, and in slightly acute corners you’ll need a wider crack in order to insert the hook’s slightly curved blade—the smallest size hook may come in handy here. Very acute corners can’t be cam-hooked. Aid horizontal cracks by placing the hook upside down.

Tests by Chris McNamara of supertopo.com found that cam hooks’ rectangular-stock blades seemed to hold a bit better when worn and rounded than when brand new, so you might try gently hand-filing the corners of new hooks to get a bit more surface area and bite. Never use a grinder; the heat can ruin the steel’s temper and springiness.

By clipping a cam hook to each aider, you can efficiently leapfrog or shuffle your way up a crack. When the run-out starts to feel too spicy, leave a nut or cam as protection. (A nut placed only for protection will be much easier for your second to remove than one you’ve stood on.) It’s sometimes possible to leave a particularly well-wedged cam hook in place for protection, but back it up as soon as possible! If you’re cam-hooking horizontally, under a flake or roof, give some consideration to how your second will follow and adjust your tactics accordingly.

[大濟]

原文講很多，不如看圖，看看就了解了 －－ “hook” 指的是這種器具是勾勾，可以勾住岩壁的小突點；可是因為它很寬，所以也可以垂直插進裂隙，施重後造成扭力（“cam”）卡住，所以叫 “cam-hooking”。原圖有4個，最小的那個傳不上來，很可惜，最小的（the micro cam-hook）可以用在很細的裂隙，這種裂隙往往別的岩楔都不能用。

附圖來自於廠商的官網：http://mosesclimbing.com/cam-hooks/

[大濟]

再加兩張圖，圖中看出用的方法蠻多的，這些都是人工攀登，自由攀登用的機會不大。人工攀登在臺灣幾乎沒人爬，不管有沒有人爬，多一些知識總是好的。

攀岩器材使用早期都是很簡單的，但只要把握住大原則，簡單的工具反而安全。現在器具越來越複雜（也越來越貴），複雜的器具讓使用者過於依賴器具，甚至在枝節上斤斤計較，大原則就忽略或遺忘了。

這些圖來自：

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/th...d=831754&tn=60

[A-YUNG]

不清楚前輩怎麼定義人工攀登，我們開發路線和探勘新路線多少還是會人工一下，不過大部份時候抓岩點是比較快的，因此，人工的時機不多，上個月在近四十米完攀處，找不到裂隙時，也用上一個Petzl Skyhook作確保支點。

有些重點再提一下

It’s sometimes possible to leave a particularly well-wedged cam hook in place for protection, but back it up as soon as possible!
它可能只有某些情況可以當確保支點，而且一向不是很穩定(沒有受力時容易脫落)，得盡快再加確保支點。

Cam hooks are most at home in cracks too thin for camming units,
當裂隙太細，岩楔沒辦法使用時，特別顯得有用！

cam hooking can save you a lot of hassle when aiding thin cracks
在小裂隙上人工攀登，特別能夠省下許多麻煩。

Cam hooks, in contrast, pop out easily. The downside is that a placement that’s secure while you’re standing on it may fall out when unweighted, making cam-hooking a little spooky.
它相對比較容易像所謂的「噴出」(pop out)，沒有受力時也可能脫出，只有朝下放時(downside placement)是安全的，總讓人覺得心裡毛毛的。

For this reason, consider all other options before cam-hooking on soft sandstone (such as found in Zion National Park), since the hook can blow out the edges of the crack just like a piton would.

因此，(此原因係其穿扁帶的孔在一側，利用槓桿原理去 “cam”卡住)，在比較軟的岩壁如Zion National Park的砂岩，以考慮其他岩楔為優先，原因是它和岩釘一樣可能破壞接觸的岩角。

[jagasana]

不好意思! 新手發問，Cam-hooking 這種攀登工具在over時有辦法使用嗎? 感覺它一開始設計的受力方向好像不適合用在over.....不知道是不是因為這樣所以沒被普遍使用，功能性上岩楔雖然無法使用在較小的裂隙中，可是在遇到困難地形時較Cam-hooking 來的可靠，不過只是我個人推斷，如有冒犯多多包含。

[大濟]

Jagasana，很好的問題。

Camhook 在垂直或小角度（斜板）岩壁很好用，大角度（外傾）－ 您說的 “over” － 就不一定了，得試試看。稍微的外傾應該沒問題，角度太大可能就不行。原則是：盡量將 camhook 倒置，如上欄兩張圖之右圖，讓其產生最大扭力，然後試試看，慢慢加重量上去，一旦卡的住就可能適用。這時要注意的是，角度稍大時 camhook 的穩定性一定大打折扣，所以即使卡的住，身體的重量必須慢慢加上，盡量維持穩定、平衡，不然脫出機會很大。

另強調一點： camhook 的設計主為靜態受力，即支持身體重量之用。 Camhook 不是為支點（protection 或簡稱 pro）而設計的。支點是準備承受瞬間受力（即墜落）的，這方面 camhook 很不適合。

謝謝阿勇翻譯，翻的非常好，其中一段可能需稍作修飾：

原文：Cam hooks, in contrast, pop out easily. The downside is that a placement that’s . . .

“pop out” 簡單的說，就是 “取出”，或 “彈出”。作者不平鋪直敘的說 “is taken out" 而用比較生動的 “pop out” 我想他想強調 camhook 在受力之後還是很容易取出，但岩楔受力後取出就可能比較麻煩的事實。

“downside” 是 “缺點”。作者想說的是，雖然 camhook 受力後很容易取出，這點岩楔比不上，但缺點是它一旦不受力時就變成很不穩定，容易脫出。

[jagasana]

聽您這麼一說，雖然岩楔取出相對較麻煩，但在瞬間受力及安全性方面風險也相對較低，我了解了...感謝前輩專業的解答!!

[A-YUNG]

作者: 大濟

Jagasana，很好的問題。

Camhook 在垂直或小角度（斜板）岩壁很好用，大角度（外傾）－ 您說的 “over” － 就不一定了，得試試看。稍微的外傾應該沒問題，角度太大可能就不行。原則是：盡量將 camhook 倒置，如上欄兩張圖之右圖，讓其產生最大扭力，然後試試看，慢慢加重量上去，一旦卡的住就可能適用。這時要注意的是，角度稍大時 camhook 的穩定性一定大打折扣，所以即使卡的住，身體的重量必須慢慢加上，盡量維持穩定、平衡，不然脫出機會很大。

另強調一點： camhook 的設計主為靜態受力，即支持身體重量之用。 Camhook 不是為支點（protection 或簡稱 pro）而設計的。支點是準備承受瞬間受力（即墜落）的，這方面 camhook 很不適合。

謝謝阿勇翻譯，翻的非常好，其中一段可能需稍作修飾：

原文：Cam hooks, in contrast, pop out easily. The downside is that a placement that’s . . .

“pop out” 簡單的說，就是 “取出”，或 “彈出”。作者不平鋪直敘的說 “is taken out" 而用比較生動的 “pop out” 我想他想強調 camhook 在受力之後還是很容易取出，但岩楔受力後取出就可能比較麻煩的事實。

“downside” 是 “缺點”。作者想說的是，雖然 camhook 受力後很容易取出，這點岩楔比不上，但缺點是它一旦不受力時就變成很不穩定，容易脫出。

謝謝前輩指正，我英文粗淺得很，只看懂一些簡單的，也沒有想要翻譯，匆匆看過沒有仔細查證。只不過前面所提的不免會讓人誤會它很好用、很安全。

[大濟]

阿勇，謝謝您不介意！這些英文，我也得翻字典、上 Google，來回看三、四遍才能大概了解原意。翻譯永遠是吃力不討好的事，我相當佩服您的坦率、熱心、勇氣與堅持。

攀岩沒有前輩，只有爬的好與爬的不好。我只是一個爬不好但還在爬、妄想還能自稱 “攀岩者” 的老攀岩人而已。